субота, 1. децембар 2012.

German Shepherd Dog Dangers


We decided to add this page to help educate people with dogs as to dangerous foods and plants that can make there beloved pets either very sick or could kill them.

Listed below are foods and plants that are harmful to dogs, it is by no means complete, so I will add more to the list as I come across them.

Food

Common Foods That Are Harmful Or Even Fatal to Dogs
Many common foods are actually harmful or even fatal to dogs. Some of these (listed below) will surprise you. Others are things you would never give your dog purposefully, but now you will be more careful to not let them be in your dog's reach. And some just need to be limited to small amounts.

Avocados (fruit, pit, and plant) are toxic to dogs. Avocados contain a toxic component called persin, which can damage heart, lung and other tissue in many animals. They are high in fat and can trigger stomach upset, vomiting and even pancreatitis. Symptoms of toxicity include difficulty breathing, abdominal enlargement, abnormal fluid accumulations in the chest, abdomen and sac around the heart. The amount that needs to be ingested to cause signs is unknown. The effects on dogs and cats are not completely understood. GI signs are commonly seen and should be treated symptomatically. In addition, the animal should be monitored closely for other clinical signs related to the cardiovascular system. (This information comes from veterinarians, the American Veterinary Medicine Association, and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.)

Onions destroy red blood cells and can cause anemia, weakness, and breathing difficulty. Even small amounts can cause cumulative damage over time. This includes onions or chives - raw, powdered, dehydrated, or cooked.

Large amounts of garlic cause the same problems as onions. Garlic contains only a small amount of the problematic substance that is in onions. Just as with people, moderation is the key.

Grapes and raisins can cause kidney failure in dogs. As little as a single serving of raisins can kill him. If the dog doesn't eat enough at one time to be fatal, he can be severely damaged by eating just a few grapes or raisins regularly.

Tomatoes (plant and fruit) contain tomatine, an alkaloid related to solanine. As the fruit ripens, the tomatine is metabolized. Therefore, ripe tomatoes are less likely to be problematic for animals. Clinical signs of poisoning include lethargy, drooling, difficulty breathing, colic, vomiting, diarrhea or constipation, widely-dilated pupils, paralysis, cardiac effects, central nervous system signs (e.g., ataxia, muscle weakness, tremors, seizures), resulting from cholinesterase inhibition, coma and death. (This information comes from veterinarians, and the ASPCA Animal Poison Control Center.) (All parts of the plant except the tomato itself are poisonous to humans, although some people are sensitive to the ripe fruit also.)
Tomatoes also contain atropine, which can cause dilated pupils, tremors, and heart arrhythmias. The highest concentration of atropine is found in the leaves and stems of tomato plants, with less in unripe (green) tomatoes, and even less in ripe (red) tomatoes.

Nutmeg can cause tremors, seizures and death.

Caffeine (from coffee, coffee grounds, tea, or tea bags) stimulates the central nervous and cardiac systems, and can cause vomiting, restlessness, heart palpitations, and even death within hours.

Diet products containing the sweetener Xylitol can cause a sudden drop in blood sugar, resulting in depression, loss of coordination and seizures. Unless treatment is given quickly, the dog could die.

Macadamia nuts can cause weakness, muscle tremor and paralysis. These symptoms are usually temporary.

Walnuts. When dogs eat the seed hulls, they can get an upset stomach and diarrhea. The real problem is the fungus or mold that attacks walnuts after they get wet (from rain or sprinklers), which produces toxins. If the fungus or mold is ingested by your dogs, they can become very ill and possibly die. Signs that should alert you to walnut poisoning are vomiting, trembling, drooling, lack of coordination, lethargy, loss of appetite, and jaundice indications such as yellowing eyes and gums. Severely affected dogs can produce blood-tinged vomit or stools. Dogs can take several days to exhibit serious signs of illness.

Chocolate can cause seizures, coma and death. Baker’s chocolate is the most dangerous. The darker the chocolate, the more dangerous it is. But any chocolate, in large enough amounts, can kill a dog. An ounce of chocolate can poison a 30-pound dog, and many dogs will happily consume more than this. The symptoms may not show up for several hours (and so might make you think all is well), with death following within twenty-four hours. A dog can consume milk chocolate and appear to be fine because it is not as concentrated, but it is still dangerous.

Apple seeds, cherry pits, peach pits, pear pips, plums pits, and apricot pits contain cyanide, which is poisonous. While a few apple seeds may not cause a problem, the effects can accumulate over time if they are given to dogs regularly. Dogs should not be allowed to chew on a peach pit, cherry pit, apricot pit, or plum pit. Chewing can allow ingestion of cyanide. Chewing could also result in the pit being swallowed, causing continuous exposure to cyanide, or could cause the dog to choke.

Too much salt can cause kidney problems. Also, large breeds of dogs that eat salty food may then drink too much water and develop bloat, which is fatal unless emergency treatment is given very quickly.

Too much fat or fried foods can cause pancreatitis.

Ham and bacon contain too much fat and too much salt, and can cause pancreatitis. Also, large breeds of dogs that eat salty food may drink too much water and develop a life-threatening condition called bloat. This is where the stomach fills up with gas and within several hours may twist, causing death.

Raw liver or too much cooked liver (three servings a week) can lead to vitamin A toxicity. This can cause deformed bones, excessive bone growth on the elbows and spine, weight loss, and anorexia. Check the label of your canned dog food to be sure that it does not contain liver if you are giving your dog liver also.

Wild mushrooms can cause abdominal pain, drooling, liver damage, kidney damage, vomiting, diarrhea, convulsions, coma, or death.

Raw egg whites contain a protein called avidin, which can deplete your dog of biotin, one of the B vitamins. Biotin is essential to your dog’s growth and coat health. The lack of it can cause hair loss, weakness, growth retardation, or skeleton deformity. Raw egg yolks contain enough biotin to prevent the deficiency, so this is not a problem with raw whole eggs. Raw egg yolks could contain salmonella, so you should get your eggs from a reliable source or cook the eggs.

Grains should not be given in large amounts or make up a large part of a dog’s diet, but rice is generally safe in small amounts.

Cooked bones can splinter and tear a dog’s internal organs.

Dogs can't digest most vegetables (carrots, green beans, lettuce, potatoes or yams) whole or in large pieces. Potato peels and green potatoes are dangerous.

Dairy products are high in fat, which can cause pancreatitis, gas and diarrhea. A small amount of non-fat, plain yogurt is usually safe.

Pennies made from the 1980s to today contain zinc, which can cause kidney failure and damage to red blood cells. A dog that consumes even one penny can become quite sick, or even die, if the penny is not removed.

Note: According to the ASPCA, "Some dogs can eat [avocadoes] without having any adverse reactions. .... The Guatemalan variety, a common one found in stores, appears to be the most problematic. Other strains of avocado can have different degrees of toxic potential."

"My dog ate ______ lots of times and didn't die, so ______ don't kill dogs." That logic is no better than "My dog runs in the street all the time and has never been hit by a car, so dogs never get hit by cars."



Plants

The following contains a list of known plants and bulbs that are poisonous to dogs, in some cases even a plants roots can be poisonous as is the case of Monks Hood.


Bulbs: 

Amaryllis, Autumn Crocus, Daffodil, Day Lily, Elephant Ears, Gladiolas, Hyacinth, Iris, Lily of the Valley, Narcissus, Orange Day Lily, Tulip
Ferns: Aparagus Fern, Australian Nut, Emerald Feather (aka Emerald Fern), Emerald Fern (aka Emerald Feather), Lace Fern, Plumosa Fern
Flowering Plants: Cyclamen, Hydrangea, Kalanchoe, Poinsettia
Garden Perennials: Charming Diffenbachia, Christmas Rose, Flamingo Plant, Foxglove, Marijuana, Morning Glory, Nightshade, Onion, Tomato Plant, Tropic Snow Dumbcane

House Plants: 

Ceriman (aka Cutleaf Philodendron), Chinese Evergreen, Cordatum, Corn Plant (aka Cornstalk Plant), Cutleaf Philodendron (aka Ceriman), Devil's Ivy, Dumb Cane, Golden Pothos, Green Gold Nephthysis, Marble Queen, Mauna Loa Peace Lily, Nephthytis, Peace Lily, Red-Margined Dracaena, Striped Dracaena, Taro Vine, Warneckei Dracaena
Lillies: Asian Lily (liliaceae), Easter Lily, Glory Lily, Japanese Show Lily, Red Lily, Rubrum Lily, Stargazer Lily, Tiger Lily, Wood Lily
Shrubs: Cycads, Heavenly Bamboo, Holly, Jerusalem Cherry, Mistletoe "American", Oleander, Precatory Bean, Rhododendron, Saddle Leaf Philodendron, Sago Palm, Tree Philodendron, Yucca

Succulents: 

Aloe (Aloe Vera)
Trees: Avocado, Buddist Pine, Chinaberry Tree, Japanese Yew (aka Yew), Lacy Tree, Macadamia Nut, Madagascar Dragon Tree, Queensland Nut, Schefflera, Yew (aka Japanese Yew)
Vines: Branching Ivy, English Ivy, European Bittersweet, Glacier Ivy, Hahn's self branching English Ivy, Needlepoint Ivy

Misc/Uncategorized:

American Bittersweet, Andromeda Japonica, Azalea, Bird of Paradise, Buckeye, Caladium hortulanum, Calla Lily, Castor Bean, Clematis, Fiddle-Leaf Philodendron, Florida Beauty, Fruit Salad Plant, Golden Dieffenbachia, Gold Dust Dracaena, Heartleaf Philodendron, Horsehead Philodendron, Hurricane Plant, Mexican Breadfruit, Mother-in-law, Panda, Philodendron Pertusum, Red Emerald, Red Princess, Ribbon Plant, Satin Pothos, Spotted Dumb Cane, Sweetheart Ivy, Swiss Cheese Plant, Variable Dieffenbachia, Variegated Philodendron, Yesterday/Today/Tomorrow



Poison

A leaflet from the BVA on this subject is available here as a free download in PDF format:-

http://www.bva-awf.org.uk/grants/projects/pets.asp

A typical household has a variety of chemicals and other substances which are capable of causing serious harm to our pets. This article outlines the common hazards, how to avoid them, how to recognise the signs if your pets have been exposed to a poison and the action that you should take.

There is an endless list of substances which might be responsible for rare cases of poisoning in pets, but some of the more common poisons include - in roughly alphabetical order - alcohol, antifreeze, aspirin, carbon monoxide, chocolate, drugs and medicines of many kinds (including illegal substances, contraceptive pills, and all sorts of other medicines including such things as cough linctus and indigestion remedies), fertilisers, insecticides, lead (mainly from paints or old car batteries), metaldehyde (slug bait), mushrooms and toadstools, onions, other plants (both indoor and outdoor), rat and other vermin poisons, and weedkillers.

This list is by no means exhaustive and there are many other items around the house, garage and garden which can cause rare episodes of poisoning - however, the addition of bittering agents (which make many products such as bleach and other common household cleaning chemicals almost impossible to swallow in quantity) has reduced the likelihood of accidental ingestion. Other poisons, which were historically important, such as strychnine, are no longer generally available in the UK.

Many suspected poisoning incidents remain unresolved because no one knows what has been swallowed. In other cases, the poison is known and action can be taken before any signs actually develop.

First Things First 

The most important thing to do with poisons is, of course, to avoid them by proper and safe storage. Whereas high shelves and lockable cupboards may be enough to protect children from the risks, cats can reach the most inaccessible of places and dogs can chew through most materials if they are determined enough. To protect pets, the only answer is to store any known poisons in firmly closed or locked containers made of chew-resistant materials and to keep drugs or medicines of any kind in a locked cupboard or drawer (and, remember to lock it). This, of course, applies in the house, in the garage and in any garden stores or sheds. While some substances may require substantial amounts to be ingested before they become dangerous, other poisons can be dangerous in very small quantities.

Chocolate poisoning tends only to occur after relatively gross overeating but fatal episodes have been recorded, so again careful storage is essential (or perhaps the answer is to finish the box yourself!). Onion poisoning is commonly seen in Australia when dogs help themselves to the fried onions from the BBQ. Symptoms are usually mild, with blood in the urine being the main sign.

If accidental access to poisons is prevented by proper storage, and products such as insecticides, fertilisers and weedkillers are used carefully in accordance with the manufacturers' instructions, there should, in theory, be few risks while your pets are on your own property.

The majority of poisonings occur either as a result of careless storage (particularly of medicines) or when animals are away from their own home or garden. Typical examples include dogs going into farm buildings or stables and eating spilled rodenticides, or cats visiting neighbouring gardens where slug baits have been left out in quantity. You may be very careful in your own garden, but neighbouring gardeners may well not be as cat-conscious.

First Aid

In the event of a suspected poisoning, you should first of all remove any suspect material (including any vomit) which remains uneaten and keep it for possible investigation. Any skin contamination should be washed off as far as possible, using just water if it appears to be water-soluble material, or a product such as Swarfega or a detergent if it appears oily.You should use a large volume of water to ensure that the substance is thoroughly washed away, otherwise you might accelerate its absorption into the skin by dissolving it.

Experience in general practice suggests that the most common incidents involve anticoagulant rat poisons, organophosphorous insecticides, fertilisers and slug pellets, and common medications.

Attempts can be made to induce vomiting if the poison is known to have been eaten less than three to four hours ago, but are not advisable if the poison is thought to be anything corrosive like creosote or petrol products. Attempts to make the animal vomit are usually rather unsuccessful but you can try a couple of teaspoons of salt or mustard in a cup of warm water, or a crystal of washing soda placed on the back of the tongue. It is not a good idea to make repeated attempts to induce the animal to be sick.

Prompt veterinary treatment is essential for all cases of suspected poisoning and you should not do anything which delays getting the patient to the veterinary surgery unless you have been given instructions over the phone by your veterinary practice. (Do remember to telephone before going to the surgery - there is not much point arriving at an unattended surgery with a critically ill pet.) If the pet appears cold (as might, for example, occur with alphachlorolose [rodenticide] poisoning), keep it warm on the way to the surgery. Conversely, if the patient is overheated (eg, if convulsions are continuing), you may need to use ice or cold water to keep the temperature down. If you have good evidence of poisoning, such as a packet from a rat poison or a medicine bottle - remember to take it with you in case there is a specific antidote which can be used for that particular chemical.

At The Surgery

In many cases, treatment of poisoning is based on controlling the signs, such as convulsions. Specific antidotes may not be available or may not exist, but your vet has access to information in many forms and will be able to find out what form of treatment is most appropriate. In many cases, treatment of an unknown poison will involve sedation or anaesthesia (if the patient is still fully conscious), and washing the stomach of the remaining poison; activated charcoal may be used to absorb as much as possible from the bowel. Intravenous fluids (a drip) may be needed to support the circulation and correct dehydration. In some cases, treatment may need to be continued for several days or longer. In some instances it may take a few days before the full effects of the poison are seen; for example, where damage has been caused to the kidneys or the liver, for example, by paracetamol. Rat poisons, which stop the blood clotting and cause death by internal bleeding, may take several days to show their effects. In some cases, the first sign of trouble may be laboured breathing due to haemorrhage (bleeding) within the chest cavity. The majority of cases of rodenticide poisoning involve young dogs. Cats are rarely affected because they are generally much more selective feeders. In many cases of poisoning due to rat poison, treatment with the specific antidote, vitamin K, is successful. Success, however, depends on early recognition of the signs and on the amount of poison eaten in the first place. In some cases poisoning can be caused by an animal eating the carcass of a rat which has itself been killed by poison.

Ever Present Risk

In conclusion, it is probably true to say that suspected cases of poisoning are common but fatal or even serious incidents are actually quite rare. The risk is ever present, however, and, if poisoning is suspected, especially when there is good evidence of access to a toxic substance, prompt intervention is essential to minimise the chances of serious harm. If in doubt, call your vet for advice but, above all, take care with the storage of potentially harmful materials.

What to do if you suspect poisoning
It is important to realise that the symptoms of poisoning can be very variable, even for one particular poison. Signs can include:

Abdominal pain, blindness, collapse, coma or sudden death, effects on the heart rhythm, convulsions, diarrhoea, difficulty breathing, incoordination, muscle tremors, paralysis, drooling and vomiting.

In many cases it can be very difficult even for your vet to decide whether the cause of the signs is a poison, and circumstantial evidence may be very important in reaching a diagnosis. For example, fits or incoordination may be due to an epileptic seizure and vomiting may be due to a bowel infection rather than any sort of poison. Poisoning by plants tends to happen to young puppies or kittens which are not very discriminating about what they eat, but it is unusual for enough to be eaten to cause anything more than vomiting and diarrhoea. Plants such as laburnum, berries or toadstools can occasionally be the source of a problem and this author has seen one case in a cat which showed very bizarre signs after eating cannabis plants. If in any doubt about the possible effects of eating something unusual, the best advice is to contact your local vetranary surgery.

German Shepherd Dog KC Breed Standard


German Shepherd Dog

KC Breed Standard





Angulation Diagram Below





General Appearance
Slightly long in comparison to height; of powerful, well muscled build with weather-resistant coat. Relation between height, length, position and structure of fore and hindquarters (angulation) producing far-reaching, enduring gait. Clear definition of masculinity and femininity essential, and working ability never sacrificed for mere beauty.

Characteristics
Versatile working dog, balanced and free from exaggeration. Attentive, alert, resilient and tireless with keen scenting ability.

Temperament
Steady of nerve, loyal, self-assured, courageous and tractable. Never nervous, over-aggressive or shy.

Head and Skull
Proportionate in size to body, never coarse, too fine or long. Clean cut; fairly broad between ears. Forehead slightly domed; little or no trace of central furrow. Cheeks forming softly rounded curve, never protruding. Skull from ears to bridge of nose tapering gradually and evenly, blending without too pronounced stop into wedge-shaped powerful muzzle. Skull approximately 50 per cent of overall length of head. Width of skull corresponding approximately to length, in males slightly greater, in females slightly less. Muzzle strong, lips firm, clean and closing tightly. Top of muzzle straight, almost parallel to forehead. Short, blunt, weak, pointed, overlong muzzle undesirable.

Eyes
Medium-sized, almond-shaped, never protruding. Dark brown preferred, lighter shade permissible, provided expression good and general harmony of head not destroyed. Expression lively, intelligent and self-assured.

Ears
Medium-sized, firm in texture, broad at base, set high, carried erect, almost parallel, never pulled inwards or tipped, tapering to a point, open at front. Never hanging. Folding back during movement permissible.

Mouth
Jaws strongly developed. With a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite, i.e. upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth and set square to the jaws. Teeth healthy and strong. Full dentition desirable.

Neck
Fairly long, strong, with well developed muscles, free from throatiness. Carried at 45 degrees angle to horizontal, raised when excited, lowered at fast trot.

Forequarters
Shoulder blade and upper arms are equal in length, well muscled and firmly attached to the body. Shoulder blades set obliquely (approximately 45 degrees) laid flat to body. Upper arm strong, well muscled, joining shoulder blade at approximately 90 degrees. Seen from all sides, the forearms are straight and, seen from the front, absolutely parallel. Bone oval rather than round. The elbows must turn neither in nor out while standing or moving. Pasterns firm, supple, with a slight forward slope. An over long, weak pastern, which would affect a dog's working ability is to be heavily penalised. Length of foreleg slightly exceeds the depth of chest.

Body
Length measured from point of shoulder to point of buttock, slightly exceeding height at withers. Correct ratio 10 to 9 or 8 and a half. Undersized dogs, stunted growth, high-legged dogs, those too heavy or too light in build, over-loaded fronts, too short overall appearance, any feature detracting from reach or endurance of gait, undesirable. Chest deep (45-48 per cent) of height at shoulder, not too broad, brisket long, well developed. Ribs well formed and long; neither barrel-shaped nor too flat; allowing free movement of elbows when gaiting. Relatively short loin. Belly firm, only slightly drawn up. Back between withers and croup, straight, strongly developed, not too long. Overall length achieved by correct angle of well laid shoulders, correct length of croup and hindquarters. The topline runs without any visible break from the set on of the neck, over the well defined withers, falling away slightly in a straight line to the gently sloping croup. The back is firm, strong and well muscled. Loin broad, strong, well muscled. Weak, soft and roach backs undesirable and should be heavily penalised. Croup slightly sloping and without any break in the topline, merges imperceptibly with the set on of the tail. Short, steep or flat croups highly undesirable.

Hindquarters
Overall strong, broad and well muscled, enabling effortless forward propulsion. Upper and lower thigh are approximately of equal length. Hind angulation sufficient if imaginary line dropped from point of buttocks cuts through lower thigh just in front of hock, continuing down slightly in front of hindfeet. Angulations corresponding approximately with front angulation, without over-angulation. See from rear, the hind legs are straight and parallel to each other. The hocks are strong and firm. The rear pasterns are vertical. Any tendency towards over-angulation of hindquarters, weak hocks, cow hocks or sickle hooks, is to be heavily penalised as this reduces firmness and endurance in movement.

Feet
Rounded toes well closed and arched. Pads well cushioned and durable. Nails short, strong and dark in colour.

Tail
Bushy-haired, reaches at least to hock – ideal length reaching to middle of metatarsus. At rest tail hangs in slight sabre-like curve; when moving raised and curve increased, ideally never above level of back. Short, rolled, curled, generally carried badly or stumpy from birth, undesirable.

Gait/Movement
Sequence of step follows diagonal pattern, moving foreleg and opposite hindleg forward simultaneously; hindfoot thrust forward to midpoint of body and having equally long reach with forefeet without any noticeable change in backline. Absolute soundness of movement essential.

Coat
Outer coat consisting of straight, hard, close-lying hair as dense as possible; thick undercoat. Hair on head, ears, front of legs, paws and toes short; on back, longer and thicker; in some males forming slight ruff. Hair longer on back of legs as far down as pasterns and stifles and forming fairly thick trousers on hindquarters. No hard and fast rule for length of hair; mole-type coats undesirable.

Colour
Black or black saddle with tan, or gold to light grey markings. All black, all grey, with lighter or brown markings referred to as Sables. Nose black. Light markings on chest or very pale colour on inside of legs permissible but undesirable, as are whitish nails, red-tipped tails or wishy-washy faded colours defined as lacking in pigmentation. Blues, livers, albinos, whites (i.e. almost pure white dogs with black noses) and near whites highly undesirable. Undercoat, except in all black dogs, usually grey or fawn. Colour in itself is of secondary importance having no effect on character or fitness for work. Final colour of a young dog only ascertained when outer coat has developed.

Size
Ideal height (from withers and just touching elbows): dogs: 63 cms (25 ins); bitches: 58 cms (23 ins). 2.5 cms (1 in) either above or below ideal permissible.

Faults
Any departure from the foregoing points should be considered a fault and the seriousness with which the fault should be regarded should be in exact proportion to its degree and its effect upon the health and welfare of the dog.

Note
Male animals should have two apparently normal testicles fully descended into the scrotum.




Dentition

Below is a diagram of the complete dentition
















Canine Dentition
Adult dogs have 42 permanent teeth
(20 upper and 22 lower teeth)
Puppies have 28 baby (deciduous) teeth
(14 upper and 14 lower teeth)

Puppies should have 28 temporary teeth that erupt at about 3-4 weeks of age. They will eventually have 42 permanent adult teeth that begin to emerge at about 3-4 months of age. As puppies, there are 14 upper and 14 lower puppy teeth. Puppies do not have any of the molars or premolar 1.

Tooth Emergence Schedule
             
                 Deciduous       Permanent
Incisors     4-6 weeks        3-5 months
Canine       5-6 weeks       4-6 months
Premolars     6 weeks        4-5 months
Molars                               5-7 months

Teeth Types and Function

The chewing forces in the dog have been estimated to be 300 to 800 psi (pounds per square inch) as passive bite force, and with a sudden localized bite force when snapping the jaws shut of as much as 30,000 to 80,000 psi.

There are 4 types of teeth with different functions:
Incisors - used for cutting and nibbling food, scooping, picking up objects and grooming; these are the front teeth situated directly in between the canines; in adults and puppies there are 6 upper and 6 lower all in a row; the center two incisors are usually somewhat smaller and the others get larger as they move out and away from the center


Canines - used for holding and tearing prey/food, slashing and tearing when fighting and as a cradle for the tongue; these are the large fangs; the lower canines lock in position in front of the upper canines; the canines are situated directly between the incisors and premolars; in adults and puppies there are two upper and two lower canines, one upper and lower on each side of the jaw


Premolars - used for cutting, holding, shearing, carrying and breaking food into small pieces; these teeth are situated between the canines and molars; puppies do not have P1 teeth, only P2, P3, P4; adults have 8 premolars on the top and 8 on the bottom, 4 on each side of the upper and lower jaws


Molars - used for grinding food into small pieces with flat occlusal tables; the molars are situated behind the premolars and are the last teeth in the back of the jaw; puppies do not have molars; adults have 4 molars on the top, two on each side of the upper jaw and 6 molars on the bottom, 3 on each side of the lower jaw

                         

Please note the above diagram was used with the express permission of the copyright holder, (Christina Chapman,(KC Accredited Trainer)), for use on this website for educational use, the Diagram should not be copied or used without her express permission or you will be in breech of copyright.





Important Puppy Teeth Information


Puppies should lose a puppy tooth before the corresponding adult tooth emerges, sometimes you will see both the puppy tooth and the adult tooth side by side. This is especially common with the canines. If a puppy tooth is still in place when an adult tooth begins to show, and it shows no signs of loosening, you need to consult with your veterinarian to decide if the puppy tooth needs to be pulled so the dog's bite will not be affected.

It is very important to keep a close eye on your puppy's teeth as they emerge.  Any abnormalities need to be dealt with promptly.

                      GSD Age to Weight Chart

Please note the table below is only a guide and is based on a medium sized GSD.

                Age                             Male                               Female
                3 mths                         14.2kg                             12.1kg
                4 mths                         19.0kg                             16.4kg
                5mths                          22.9kg                             20.0kg
                6mths                          26.1kg                             22.6kg
                7mths                          28.3kg                             24.7kg
                8mths                          30.1kg                             26.1kg
                9mths                          31.5kg                             27.1kg
                10mths                        32.7kg                             27.9kg
                11mths                        33.6kg                             28.7kg
                12mths                        34.5kg                             29.1kg
                Adult  Weight              40.0kg                             32.0kg    


               Construction and Movement Diagrams  

The following diagrams are the copyright  of Christina Champman, (KC Accredited Trainer), and permission has been granted to us to use them on or website as an Educational aid, copying her diagrams from this page and using them without her permission will be in breech of Christinas Copyright.
We thank Christina for allowing us to use these diagrams on our site.








Training a SAR (Search and Rescue) Dog 2


Training a SAR (Search and Rescue) Dog 2


Founded in 1972

The American Rescue Dog Association (ARDA), the nation's oldest air-scenting search dog organization, was founded in 1972 by Bill and Jean Syrotuck. The ARDA "concept" was a result of the Syrotuck's desire to provide the public with competent well-trained search and rescue personnel and canines. To achieve this goal, the Syrotuck's formed the American Rescue Dog Association by organizing various state rescue dog associations from across the nation in order to share training techniques, develop, uniform standards, and create a national alerting system for major emergencies.

Accomplishments

ARDA standards and training methods have served as the model for canine search and rescue units across the nation and around the world. Some of ARDA's accomplishments include:
  • The development of standards and training methods for the air-scenting search dog.
  • The development of a national evaluation system for member units.
  • Pioneering research on scent behavior and how it relates to different terrain and weather conditions.
  • The first use of American trained search dogs to locate avalanche victims (SARDA, ARDA-WA, 1969).
  • The first use of American trained search dogs to locate victims of a major disaster (Ramapo, ARDA-NJ, Johnstown Floods, 1977)
  • The development of training methods for the use of air-scenting search dogs in water recovery (VSRDA, ARDA-VA, 1979).
  • Development of the "sector search" method, a search technique that involves using multiple dog/handler teams simultaneously to cover a given area.
  • Compilation of the first study of victim behavior - now used in search management courses world-wide.

Notable Missions

ARDA Members and their canines have been involved in some of the following missions. Please note, in some of the following missions, ARDA handlers responded as members of a FEMA Task Force or state (USAR) urban search and rescue team.
  • March 2011 - Earthquake & Tsumani in Japan
  • January 2010 - Earthquake in Haiti
  • September 2008 - Hurricane Ike
  • September 2005 - Hurricane Rita
  • August 2005 - Hurricane Katrina
  • February 2003 - Space Shuttle Columbia Disaster
  • September 11, 2001 - World Trade Center Attacks (Rescue and Recovery)
  • September 11, 2001 - Pentagon Attacks (Rescue and Recovery)
  • September 11, 2001 - Shanksville, Pennsylvania (Recovery)
  • October 1999 - Earthquake, Duzce, Turkey
  • September 1999 - Earthquake, Touliu, Taiwan
  • August 1999 - Earthquake in Izmit, Turkey
  • August 1998 - Embassy Bombing, Nairobi, Kenya
  • April 1995 - Oklahoma City Bombing (Rescue and Recovery)

In 2007, ARDA modified their standards to allow member units the option to roster individuals with any breed of dog. The purpose for this historical change was to provide current and future member units the ability to recruit and train the best possible canine teams for their unit.
When choosing a dog breed suitable for search and rescue work, it is recommended to choose from a breed that possesses such traits as:
    • Excellent scenting capability
    • Strong drives (prey, pack, play, etc.)
    • Physical endurance/stamina
    • High degree of intelligence
    • High degree of trainability
In general, working breeds such as the Labrador Retriever, German Shepherd Dog, Border Collie, Belgian Mallinois, and Golden Retriever make suitable candidates for search and rescue work. It is important to note, however, that breed alone does not produce an ARDA quality search dog. A stable, friendly temperament and strong drives are essential; and can only be achieved through good breeding programs, frequent socialization with other humans and dogs, and a strong training foundation.
The American Rescue Dog Association is excited at the prospect to work with, learn, and train with new members and various breeds of dogs. However, we would like to recognize the German Shepherd Dog as well as the hard work and dedication of numerous ARDA handlers over that past 35-years. It is through these handlers and their work with the German Shepherd dog that has made ARDA the outstanding organization that it is today.



Training a SAR (Search and Rescue) Dog


Training a SAR (Search and Rescue) Dog 

 
 A well trained SAR dog is a sight to behold.  The dog can evenly maneuver the most difficult of terrain with the grace of a mountain goat all the while looking for a trapped or hidden human being.  This type of work is often done on the fly, at the drop of the hat, with little advanced warning.  It requires a talented dog and a special handler willing to invest the time and effort.
 
In the Beginning: Selecting a Dog
 It is a finely refined dog that is capable of working as a SAR dog.  Search and Rescue work requires an immense amount from the dog: intelligence, agility, stamina, drive, work ethic, confidence, and the ability to listen and respond to the handler.  Not every dog is well suited to this task.
 
 Many SAR trainers prefer to work with puppies because this way you can select what you are looking for and put in the socialization and work to make a well rounded puppy.  Older dogs can be used, but you will need to evaluate carefully to make sure that the dog doesn’t have any fears or problems related to lack of early socialization and exposure.
 
 When selecting a dog of any age, selecting one with a HIGH level of ball/play drive is necessary.  You want a dog that is focused and intense about playing.  The best way I’ve ever heard this described is that you want a dog that will play ball or toys with anyone, anywhere, for any length of time without becoming distracted.  This demonstrates a dog that has such a high level of focus and desire for his toy that he will eagerly work in difficult conditions for hours on end simply for his toy.
 
 There are many breeds of dogs that can do the work, but often the German Shepherd Dog, Belgian Malinois, and Labrador Retriever are three of the primary breeds.  Individuals of other breeds or mixed breeds can have the ability so long as they fit the requirements of stable temperament, trainability, high drive, and high focus.
 
 I can’t stress enough that the best dogs have a high drive, are well focused, and have no temperamental flaws.  SAR work can be stressful work, and not every dog is up to it.
 
How Does SAR Work: Beginning Training
 Dogs can be trained for a variety of situations (live person, cadaver, water, wilderness, urban, disaster, etc.), but we’ll focus on the beginning training for live person searches.  There are a lot of facets that complicate the training depending on what you would like to do.  Full search and rescue training can be anywhere from 6 months to a year or two depending on how many hours you invest in the training process.  SAR training is a time consuming process!
 
 One of the best things to do is to make SAR work all about play.  The dogs that have that intense play drive will begin to think of SAR work as just a game with their toy at the end of it.  This is important both for the training and the dog’s work.
 
 The initial training can be started quite early with a puppy and can really be a Hide N’ Seek type of game.  We want the dog to be excited about finding someone, so often the owner or person closest to the dog is the first person to start the game with the dog.  Find It is one of the more common commands that will be used along with the game, but you can interchange commands, if you have one you prefer.
 
 Have a second person hold the dog on lead while you have the dog’s favorite toy and initially do a little tugging play with the dog.  Excite him! Then, take the toy and run away in a direction the dog can see.  If you want to make it very easy, drop to the ground.  A little harder would be to duck behind a bush or obstacle that the dog saw you go behind.  Once in place, the handler should release the dog and tell him to go Find It.
 
 Initial work is always easiest when the dog has a light wind to pick scent up from so when hiding, go so that the wind will blow your scent towards the dog when working outdoors.
 
 As soon as the dog runs right to you and finds you, make a big deal out of it and play tug.  How you react when found is key to the eventual training.  The dog has to think it is great fun to find someone.
 
 Once the dog catches on, ask other people to do a similar process with the dog and have them be the person that excites the dog and hides.  Gradually you increase the difficulty of the search for the dog so he has to work harder in larger areas, at different times of day, over different terrains, etc.
 
 The dog will likely use more than one style of scent work to find you.  Some dogs are more prone to air scenting naturally while others prefer ground scenting.  Some dogs will flip between the two depending on the situation.  They are always scenting the same thing: microscopic skin cells that we each continually shed all day long.
 
How to Get Involved in SAR Training
 You can lay the groundwork for SAR training yourself early on by playing games of Hide N’ Seek and working on obedience commands and control.  But, to get really closer to creating a SAR dog, you will need to do a lot of advanced training and work.
 
 It is best to look for local SAR training clubs.  They can easily evaluate your dog to ensure it is good candidate for work.  Additionally, they will be set up to assist with training for all kinds of SAR work plus be able to help you through the certification process for whichever training you do.
 
 To begin the process of locating SAR groups near you and learning about requirements, check out this link: http://www.sardogs.com/national_sar_organizations.htm It provides website links for many, many American, Canadian, and International SAR resources.

The American Bulldog 2









The American Bulldog 2


Description: The American Bulldog is bred from working dogs and designed for catching livestock and protecting property. They are larger then their close relatives, the Old English Bulldog. American Bulldogs are a powerful, athletic short-coated dog, strongly muscled and well boned. The head is large and broad with a wide muzzle, and with very powerful jaws. American Bulldogs generate the impression of great strength, endurance and exhibit a well-knit, sturdy compact frame. The American Bulldog should be evaluated as a working dog, and exaggerations or faults should be penalized in proportion to how much they interfere with the dog's ability to work. The American Bulldog is a gentle and loving dog, affectionate with their owners. They are fearless when it comes to defending, however, and they do so very well. The American Bulldog can get along well with pets it has been raised with, but may be dog aggressive with dogs of the same sex. This breed gets along well with children and is a joy to a home.

Other Names: Old Country Bulldog, Old English White

Type: Guardian Dog

Height: Desirable height in a mature male ranges from 22 - 27 inches; in a mature female from 20 - 25 inches.
Weight: Desirable weight in a mature male ranges from 75 - 125 pounds; in a mature female from 60 - 100 pounds.

Colors: All white, pied, or up to 90% color; brindle or red patches (red is defined as any shade of tan, brown or red).
Coat: The coat is short, close, hard and stiff to the touch.

Temperament: American Bulldogs have the essential characteristics of the Bulldog which enable it to work as a hog and cattle catching dog and a protector of personal property. These tasks require a powerful, agile, confident dog with a large head and powerful jaws. The American Bulldog is a gentle, happy, loving family companion who is fearless enough to face an angry bull or a human intruder. They are fine with strangers if they have a chance to meet them. They love children but might be unintentionally too rough with them and therefore should be supervised.
With Children: Yes, the American Bulldog is known for it's love for children.
With Pets: Yes, the American Bulldog is excellent with other pets, especially when raised together and socialized. American Bulldogs should generally only be housed with a dog of the opposite sex. They may be dog aggressive with members of the same sex.

Watch-dog: High. Bulldogs are very alert to what is going on around them, and around their property.
Guard-dog: High.

Care and Training: Brush their coat with a firm bristle brush or rubber mitt and bathe only when necessary. Puppies should have early socialization. They need short walks in a cool environment. Overexertion, or exertion in hot, humid weather, is dangerous. Bulldogs cannot swim! Most wheeze, snore, and drool, thus giving rise to occasional breathing problems. Tail folds and facial wrinkles should be cleaned daily.
Learning Rate: High. Mostly an independent thinker, the American Bulldog lives to please its master.

Activity: Medium - High.
Special Needs: Attention, a fenced yard, leash, socialization, training, and supervision around water.
Living Environment: Indoor or outdoor, the American Bulldog requires an experienced owner who has time to train and socialize their dog. American Bulldogs should generally only be housed with a dog of the opposite sex. They may be dog aggressive with members of the same sex. The best owner for this breed would be a dog-experienced owner living in a suburban, rural or city environment.

Health Issues: This is a rather healthy, hardy dog. Some strains have hip dysplasia, parvovirus, skin allergies, breathing problems or eye problems.

Life Span: 8 - 15 years. This can be either a short lived or long lived breed.
Litter Size: 6 - 16 puppies. Wow!

Country of Origin: United States of America
History: Bulldogs in England were originally working dogs who drove and caught cattle and guarded their masters' property. The breed's strength, courage, and familiarity with livestock led to its popularity in the brutal sport of bull baiting. When this sport was outlawed in England, the original type of Bulldog disappeared from Britain and was replaced with the shorter, stockier, less athletic dog we now know as the English Bulldog. The original Bulldog, however, was preserved by working class immigrants who brought their working dogs with them to the American South. Small farmers and ranchers used this all-around working dog for many tasks. By the end of World War II, however, the breed was almost extinct. Mr. John D. Johnson, a returning war veteran, decided to resurrect this breed. Along with Alan Scott and several other breeders, Johnson began carefully to breed American Bulldogs, keeping careful records and always with an eye for maintaining the breed's health and working abilities. Today the breed is highly popular in America.

Class: Rare, Working
Registries: UKC

The American Bulldog 1


                               The American Bulldog

 When one thinks of the bulldog, the image that first comes to mind is probably that of the English Bulldog, with its squat build, round head and distinctive “face that only a mother could love.” But there is another kind of beloved breed of bulldog: bigger and more athletic, and ruggedly handsome where the English Bulldog is charmingly ugly. This is the American Bulldog, a breed that almost literally came back from the dead to become widely popular as both a working dog and a family pet.

 Like its English cousin, the American Bulldog is stocky, sturdy and muscular, with a fierce countenance that belies a loving and protective nature. Its overall features are more classic canine than its Old Country counterpart, however, and it has a unique upright posture that makes it almost appear as if this dog is standing on two legs when seen from a distance. Its face and muzzle are solid and square, but without the exaggerated blockiness and wrinkled jowls that define the English version. This is a relatively thick and heavy medium-sized dog, measuring from 22 to 28 inches in length and weighing anywhere from 70 to 120 pounds, depending on the size of their last meal. The American Bulldog can come in a variety of color patterns, but white is usually featured prominently.

 Its fur is short and bristly and requires only the occasional brushing to control this breed’s modest shedding. This is generally a healthy breed, but like so many breeds this bulldog is vulnerable to the painful inherited condition known as hip dysplasia, so you should make sure the parents of the dog you are considering adopting were tested for this disorder and certified dysplasia-free.


 Fiercely loyal to its humans and brave to a fault, the American Bulldog is equally at home on the farm rounding up cattle and protecting them from predators or following along with its owner by leash on long peaceful walks through a neighborhood park. This dog loves children, and will make a wonderful companion as well as an excellent guard dog if your kids and their canine friend should ever wander off and find themselves in harm’s way. The American Bulldog is not a hyper or overly excitable dog by any means, but he does need to keep active, and long walks are definitely recommended in addition to at least some yard space for him to pace about in. Because this breed has a naturally strong and forceful personality, it is important that he be subject to the authority of a decisive pack leader - you - to prevent him from becoming overly aggressive in certain situations. Quiet and clear authority will help your bulldog feel more comfortable and relaxed, as he will know that he is a valuable member of the group but does not need to assert himself completely as the top dog.

 The American Bulldog is intelligent, athletic, and easily trained, and has had much success as a show performer. The breed is both protective and disciplined, which have made it a popular choice for a farm or guard dog. Decades ago, this dog was also used a lot for hunting, and was known in the South as a scourge to destructive wild boars. But despite its physical strength and assertiveness in the face of a threat, the American Bulldog still makes a terrific pet, and has gained most of its popularity as a vigorous and affectionate companion animal.
 
The American Bulldog Makes a Comeback
 Descended from farm dogs popular in past times in both the Midwest and South, by the early-to mid 20th century the popularity of the American Bulldog had started to wane, to the point that the dog was actually on the verge of extinction. After returning home from service following World War II, a young aspiring dog breeder from Summerville, Georgia named John Johnson decided to take it upon himself to resurrect the American Bulldog.

 Johnson traveled all across the rural South, gathering all the attractive specimens he could find for his own personal breeding program. Johnson’s highly determined and ultimately successful efforts attracted the attention of other breeders, who eventually joined him in the effort to keep the breed going. Of particular importance was a man named Alan Scott, who originally collaborated with Johnson only to break with him later after it became clear that the two men did not share the same vision about how the American Bulldog should be bred. While Scott preferred a lighter, more agile dog that could still function as a hunter, Johnson wanted a stronger, sturdier dog that would be suitable for guard duty or companionship.

 In truth, the split between Johnson and Scott was probably a good thing, because it opened up the process for more experimentation and cross breeding across the newly created American Bulldog breeding community. The breed as it is today emerged from this dynamic and fluid breeding program; nevertheless, there is no question that John Johnson alone deserves most of the credit for bringing the American Bulldog almost literally back from the dead.
 
Low on Maintenance, High on Enjoyment
 The American Bulldog is a low-maintenance dog when living in the country and medium-maintenance in a home or apartment. Besides his need for outdoor activity, one other thing that should be taken into account before choosing one of these dogs for companionship is the fact that like any other bulldog, the American Bulldog is a big-time drooler. If having a dog who slobbers all over you and leaves moist spots in different locations around the house is a big turn-off, then any breed of bulldog is probably not for you. If, on the other hand, you want a dog that combines many attractive characteristics, such as loyalty, protectiveness, friendliness with children, striking appearance and the desire to run and play and enjoy wonderful times outdoors, then the American Bulldog would make an outstanding addition to your household, and to your family.